Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Entertaining kids during recess

One of the things I’ve definitely come to appreciate in our 3 weeks here is the art of handling young children. I’ve gained a tremendous amount of respect for friends of mine that handle children every day.  The amount of energy we expend in the 4 hours with the kids is absolutely ridiculous. When we get home for lunch, it’s not uncommon for Dal or I to catch a nap to recharge. These kids are beautiful sponges who crave constant attention but have an attention-span that rivals my own.  We’ve actually come up with some survival tactics while handling the kids during recess to ensure we’re not overwhelmed. Here’s an evaluation of them :  
1)   Ring Around the Rosey
Pros:  Great for boys and girls and can be played with 3 or 30 kids.
Cons: The we-all-fall-down part can be dangerous as kids either fall on me..or I fall on them. No one wins.
2)     Red Rover
Pros: Encourages teamwork and bonding and competition.
Cons: Given the history in Rwanda and the several border wars with the Democratic Republic of Congo (Zaire), games that prevent children from breaking through a barrier may not be a good idea.
3)      Soccer
Pros: I can dominate them and teach them to do celebratory dances.
Cons: Me teaching African kids to dance ? They may as well teach me to play hockey.
4)      Conga Line
Pro : Gets them to cooperate by putting their arms on the shoulders of the kid in front of them
Con : Massive pileups due to one or multiple kids not keeping pace. The pileups are lots fun to watch…but I always feel guilty when someone starts crying.
5)      Sit down and pretend it’s quiet time
Pros : They’ll copy us and sit in silence….. for about 3.2 seconds.
Cons : A revolt after 3.2 seconds consisting of jumping, screaming and snot flying everywhere.
6)      Kick a ball far and let them retreat it
Pros : I get to dropkick a soccer ball far and let the kid go fetch his ball. He/she are thrilled at how high I kick it. And it’s like an organized line as they all wait for me to kick their ball
Cons : Potential groin injury. Yes…on the third day here, I slightly tweaked my groin doing this.
Given our mutual short attention span, I think we’ll have to continue with the multi-faceted approach to entertain and exhaust them during their playtime.
On a separate note, I’d like to thank all my teachers from KG to Grade 8. I truly admire those who dedicate their days to educating young people and giving them the tools to be successful in life. 
From St Alphonsus in Peterborough : Mrs Ayotte (KG), Mrs Courneyea (Gr 1 and Gr 2), Mrs Morris (Gr3), Mr Purdue (Gr 4), Miss Heffernan (Gr 5), Mr Malloy (Gr 6). From St Anne’s in Peterborough : M. Normand (Gr 6) et Mlle Lawson (Gr 7&8).
- DP

Sunday, September 26, 2010

4 Similiarities between Rwanda and N. America

1)  Quality of Repairs – Every summer, we do a family trip to Quebec, and every year without fail we experience construction on Highway 20 or 40 near Montreal. Often in the same exact spots as the year before.  The accepted local theory is that the contractors the Quebec government employ do enough of a job to demonstrate the required improvement but a shabby-enough job that there’s guaranteed work to be had for the next summer. At our guesthouse in Rwanda, we have two bathrooms. For the 3 weeks we’ve been here, both toilets have been functioning for about 50% of the time. And neither are very complex toilets. The plumber has been here several times and keeps installing new parts, removing old ones and trying new techniques. And he keeps coming back. I’m pretty sure he’s made his way to the top 3 of Teste’s speed-dial.

2)  Multitasking –In North America, many pride themselves on their ability to multi-task and parallel process even though it’s been scientifically proven that it’s much more productive in the long-run to complete one task before moving to the next. I, for one, am constantly multi-tasking, often to the chagrin of my wife and co-workers with about 20 windows open on my laptop while talking on my blackberry.  In Rwanda, mothers take multi-tasking to another level, especially those with young children. Breast-feeding in public is accepted here. I’ve seen women breast-feeding while
·         Learning English – Yes. I’ve tried to teach a woman to read while her boob was out
·         Accepting a goat – we actually have a photo of a woman accepting her goat from us while her child was accepting her milk
·         Begging – we haven’t seen many beggars here but she was one that was hard to ignore
·         Digging in the field – many village women here dig in the fields as their source of income and last week one woman did her job while lying on her side and breast-feeding her child. She used one arm to stabilize her child and her second arm to extract weeds. A truly impressive performance.

3)  Inexplicable love of James Taylor by people that I admire: My first encounter with James Taylor came when I lived in Boston and discovered that my boss at iBasis, Brian, was a huge fan. Brian is an amazing guy, calm but has a great energy about him, has a great family, is a big sports fan, is well-traveled and very likable. And he was in his mid-30’s when I worked for him. So you’ll understand why I simply can’t wrap my head around his fascination with such a drab, monotone performer whose songs are completely interchangeable. Fast forward 10 years. As we’re driving to the goat market today, Teste puts in a tape and James Taylor comes on. I chuckle to myself thinking it’s a mixed tape that’s not exactly starting off with a bang. But then song after song of frivolous folksy foolishness drone through the car speakers and I come to the chilling realization that Teste is also a James Taylor fan. I looked at him with a pained look, but his head was swaying and I didn’t have the heart to tell our lead goat negotiator that he had terrible taste in music.

4) Security : As Canadians, we’re privileged to have many rights, one of which is a secure place to live. The furor around the violence incurred during the recent G20 summit in Toronto helped remind us how lucky we are to have the comfort of security.  We don’t have a lot of enemies as peacekeeping is part of our ethos. In general our police and political leaders are not known to be corrupt and we can carry on with law-abiding lives without being interfered with. This is not the case in many African countries, as those responsible for maintaining civil safety and security are the same ones that compromise it. Many people here have told me harrowing stories about Nairobi (fondly known as Nai-robbery) and Democratic Republic of Congo (Zaire). One of the reasons Cathy (the founder of the preschool) loves it in Rwanda is because of this security. She’s free to do what she wants and help with development here without having to worry about kickbacks, random violence or threats. This security is what earned President Kagame close to 95% popularity in recent elections.  Rwandans experienced a long period with an absence of security as recently as 13 years ago, but have rebounded exceptionally well and progressed past their pre-genocide peaks in many facets due to the state of stability they currently enjoy.

Friday, September 24, 2010

4 Differences between Rwanda and N. America

1)      Time  At 2pm on Monday and Thursdays, we offer English classes to the local adults. At 2:05pm, there are literally no more than 4 adults in the classroom. By 2:30, there are around 25 willing pupils. This happens EVERY Monday and Thursday. I asked Cathy about this phenomenon and she knowingly nodded and said “Look at their wrists”. No watches. No clocks in the house either. Many of them tell time using the sun (Cosmo Kramer style), by watching their neighbours, by when their kids come home from school or by looking for our vehicle to come to school. Some have a mobile phone and use that as their main clock, but in general, time is event-trigger based here.

2)      Speed of Internet – I’ll never complain about Rogers Internet ever again.  The internet here reminds me of the dial-up days of 1996. Connecting to the ISP server was never guaranteed, and you could take a nice shower in between trying to connect to different websites. In our case, we spend a lot of time at Ste Anne’s Hotel patio which is a bar that’s about a 10 minute walk away from the house and offers free WiFi for patrons. So we consume a lot of Fanta and Primus beer while waiting for Facebook or Hotmail to load up.

3)      PDA’s between male and female – I’m not huge with public displays of affection (PDAs) as Dal will attest to. I'm probably average for a North American male. In Rwanda, I’m like the emotional lovechild of Michael Buble and Casanova. There is very little hand-holding or arm-around-the-shoulder happening here between male and female. We haven’t seen any public kissing yet. However, it’s common for a pair of men to be holding hands while walking on the street and it’s not indicative of their sexual orientation, but rather a sign of friendship. Basically I’ve had a magnet put to my gay-dar, as evidenced by Dal’s last post about our night out on the town.

4)      Operational Efficiency – In North America, decisions in the workplace are often aimed at increasing operational efficiency. More output in less time with fewer resources. Consultants are paid gross sums of money to design and implement process maps while innovation and technology spur newer, better and faster ways of doing things.  In Rwanda, efficiency doesn’t appear to the goal. As we walk to school, we’ll pass countless women carry sacks of potatoes or rocks on their head. We see men sitting at the side of the road crushing rocks with other rocks with the goal to eventually create bricks. When we get to the market to pick up produce, one of the local boys will approach us as we park and ask for a ‘job’. We’ll pay him 100 francs ($0.20) to carry our bags as we navigate the market. At the guesthouse, there are two employees that cook our meals, do our laundry and keep the place clean. At the school, a man is employed as bathroom monitor to ensure that the kids are washing their hands and that they’ve cleaned up after themselves. For the first couple of weeks, my head was spinning with ideas of how to make things more efficient. But as more and more people approach me for a job, there’s the unwavering reality that Rwanda is still an impoverished country with many untrained adults that need to provide for their families. Rwanda is in that early stage of the transition from an unskilled workforce to a skilled one. The government prioritizes education which gives promise for this transition, but it will take time and patience and for now we’ll have to accept the realities.

- DP

Thursday, September 23, 2010

A Night Out in Rwanda

Having been in Rwanda for a few weeks, the visitors were restless for some night time shenanigans. The ever-resourceful Ron offered up an option – we could check out Rwandan ‘Karaoke’ and then hit up the local club. We were amenable to this idea and resolved to all take afternoon naps that Friday, so we’d have a chance of staying up past our usual bed-time here, which is about 8pm.
Come 8pm Friday night and the first stop was Tequila – the karaoke bar. We paid our cover of 1000 Rwandan francs (roughly 2 dollars) and headed straight to the bar. The rest of the group are beer drinkers, but I personally can’t stomach the stuff. So I perused the bar and asked for the one thing I was familiar with – a shot of Johnny Walker Red, no ice please (the tap water here is not a friend to my north American tummy). The bar tender brought out a wine glass and filled it almost to the top with Whiskey. Well – who says I can’t LOOK like a lady while drinking neat whiskey. I happily took my glass into the karaoke section while the rest of the group looked in disbelief as the only non-drinker in the group committed to hard alcohol. ‘You want some coke at least?’ Devon asked.’No thanks’ I responded ’I really don’t want to have to pee here’.  David said my dad would be proud.
Rwandan karaoke…is unlike any karaoke I have seen. It essentially consists of lip-synching to music while dancing on stage with a mic. There was a young lady on stage when we arrived, gyrating rather provocatively to Rihanna’s ‘Rude Boy’. She returned for several encore performances, her clothes getting skimpier and skimpier each time. Nudity is illegal so thankfully we were spared, but she certainly didn’t leave much to the imagination. Next up was a local young man, who thought it might be fun to pull David up on stage, have him do a few dance movements of his own, and then proceeded to do the ‘worm’ under David’s legs to emerge on the other side. Much fun. For me. The locals were beside themselves to see a Muzungu be such a good sport.
Then our good friend Ron, also known as ‘Acidic’ – went up on stage and lip synched to one of his own recorded songs – and we dutifully stood up, clapped, cheered and made excellent groupies . Ron has written and recorded a few excellent songs and it was great to see him up there.
 An hour later, we got a bit fed up and proceeded to the Silverback club. Spirits were high, and mine especially has been consumed throughly.
Highlights of the club include the following:
1.       Dal having to rescue David, not once, but twice, from the advances of a local man who simply wanted to dance with him, hold hands and twirl him around. 
2.       Steve keeping good to his pledge to dance with the ‘ugliest chick in the room’
3.       Dal being almost knocked off her feet when she was hit by a chinese man who was being ‘twirled’ across the room by the same local who was previously trying to dance with David.
4.       Devon and Dal reassuring the club bouncer that he was indeed a ‘sexy boy’. This was done by pointing at his rather expansive pecs and giving him 4 thumbs up. His words to us, and I quote ‘I want to be a sexy boy’.
5.       Random playing of  ‘Walk of Life’ by the Dire Straits and the crazy realization that all the Rwandans in the room KNEW and song and LOVED it.
Our night out was so much fun, made more so by the fact that the locals are welcoming, friendly and completely non-aggressive. In addition, most of the local men here think I’m twelve years old, so I typically get left alone. Rwandan women tend to look quite mature, and with my slight stature, baby face and lack of offspring, most guess I’m in my early teens. Good for me.
- Dal

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Goat Update - 80 delivered, 75 to go

Since our first goat post, we have made 3 more trips to the goat market and picked up 20 each time resulting in a total of 80 goats distributed. We have 75 left to distribute. We have photos of each goat with a sign of their owner and the goat name which we'll email once we're in Asia since the connection will be much faster. However, for your entertainment,  here are some random goat adventures
·         After the school parade, we headed off with Teste to the goat market. Teste insisted on wearing his pink parade crown to the goat market, and didn’t heed our concern that he might be ripped off because he looked like royalty. (heh heh heh) Oddly enough it might have worked in his favour – he was able to get some great deals.
·         It’s not uncommon while at the goat market for children to come up to us and just stare at us. There’s absolutely nothing uncomfortable about it since we understand they’re simply fascinated by our muzungu-ness. Some of them want to practice their English so we have the basic conversations of “Hello, how are you, what is your name, how old are you, where are you from” which never tire us since it’s always conducted with plenty of smiles.
·         This past Friday, one of the goat vendors was wearing a Peterborough Lakers Lacrosse t-shirt. Dave was particularly thrilled about this as Peterborough is his hometown! We explained to the vendor the fortuitous coincidence and implored he should give us a great price for his goat. He countered that we should pay him even more because of the connection. We settled for an average price with him.
·         After purchasing the 20 goats and waiting for the truck to transport it back to the school, a boy walked by holding a live chicken. Teste turned to me with a grin and offered “Should we have chicken for dinner?”. Dal’s been craving chicken so I quickly agreed, and 2500 Rwanda Francs later (about $5 CDN), I had the live chicken cradled in my right arm.  It’s feet/wings were tied together to prevent it flying away. We then sent a boy into the market to buy 2 more chickens so that we could have a nice feast at home as the 3 Brit volunteers were leaving that night. As I held the chicken, I wondered if I was going to undergo a personal awakening and realize that this live chicken I held in my arms was one of God’s creations that deserved a better fate and that I could live off the land and be content as a vegetarian. Nope..didn’t happen. It really was finger lickin’ good.

Friday, September 17, 2010

The Parade

A couple of weeks ago, Cathy announced the school would have its first ever parade. This announcement was met with blank stares from the children and teachers alike, as no one had seen a parade before and didn’t actually know what one was. It was up to us to show them what it was all about.

The volunteers spent the next couple of days in school putting together parade paraphernalia with the children. This included brilliantly colours crowns made with craft paper and crayons, pipe cleaners, glitter and feathers, as well as ‘wands’ mounted on sticks that the kids could carry in their hands. Some of the kids even got craft paper necklaces, making some of them look real pimped out in a crown, necklace and wand.
We took turns with each class, bringing a group of about 8 kids out at a time, trying to get them hyped up about making their crowns. The older kids caught on immediately, while the babies had no concept of what was going on and ended up either with the nicest crowns (made by the oh so helpful volunteers themselves) or the least adorned crowns, because let’s face it, the little ones simply didn’t care much at that point.  
In addition to props, we taught the children to sing of ‘WE WILL, WE WILL ROCK YOU’ with foot stomps, and ‘Na na na na, hey hey hey, goodbye’ which we all figured were appropriate parade songs. In addition to ‘When the saints go marching in’ which they know from previous teaching.
For We Will Rock You, we were reminded by Dave's sister that lyrics like "You've got blood on your face, you big disgrace" are probably not appropriate for kids emerging from a war-ravaged country. Noted. We stuck to the chorus.
As we got closer to the day of the parade, we realized we were running short on items…what better way to make up for lost time than by getting the adult English class involved! After all, most of them had kids who would be in the parade and would be happy to help…we hoped. We divided the adult class up into 4 stations – this way 2 stations would be dedicated to arts and crafts and 2 would be dedicated to the actual teaching of English – and this way every student would get what they originally came for, and then some.
We did not anticipate the huge rush of excitement at being able to do the arts and crafts. I suppose perhaps the parents have such little time to be creative in day to day life, that the opportunity to be silly with crowns and pipe cleaners and glitter glue was a welcome change from the routine of day to day life. Most notable was Papa Sarah. Papa Sarah is so called because he is the ‘Papa of Sarah ‘ who is the oldest of his triplet girls. Papa Sarah also has 5 other children, so we can’t figure why he’s named for Sarah, but who are we to argue ?
Papa Sarah is the caretaker at the school. At over 6 feet tall, and the father of 8, he is one of the most gentle men I have ever come across – and he has the most brilliant smile. Papa Sarah doesn’t attend the English classes, but we called him into the arts and crafts station to see if he might have any interest. I was a bit concerned he might think it all very childish and silly…but once he saw what was going on, wow did that man go to town! I have never seen a grown man so enthralled by feathers and pipe cleaners before – it was amazing to see the dedication he put into each of the crowns he made, and the glow of pride as he handed in each one of his crowns. His smile alone would be enough to make your day.
Parade day dawned in a rush of excitement. The best student was chosen – a boy called Fils who secured a 97% score in his exams – and he was made the leader of the parade. As a special reward, Fils was gifted an extremely smart suit than had been donated by a kind soul back in Toronto. It fit him fairly well – he will grow into it – and we got a special thank you from his mum, which we weren’t expecting.
And off we went with the singing of children, the blowing of whistles, the waving of balloons, the banging of tambourines, the ting-ting of a glockenspiel and somewhere I swear I heard cowbell. I kept thinking ‘We need more cowbell’. Out of the corner of my eye I noticed a slightly teary Cathy who claimed she was crying because the kids were so darn cute. I think - since she is the woman who made this all possible – it would be really hard to not get emotional seeing all these beautiful, well fed, well adjusted children making their way down the street, the pride and envy of the neighbourhood.
Parents, neighbours and passerbys lined up along the side to watch and cheer them on. And when we arrived back, we sat the kids down in a circle, gave them some lunch and watched them wolf it down. We keep expecting someone to throw up due to all the excitement, but it hasn’t happened yet-  very impressive.
There was some bread left over, and it was handed out to the parents who came to the school to watch the parade. A piece was given to Papa Ange (yes, the Papa of Ange who attends the school). I saw him break it into half, give one half to Ange, some to her friends sitting with her, and then he ate the rest himself.
That’s love. And this place seems full of it. 
- Dal

Adult Class making crowns
Papa Sarah


Cathy sheds a tear of joy
WE WILL WE WILL ROCK YOU


NAH NAH NAH, HEY HEY HEY
GOOOOD-BYE
Dal, David and Fils


Ron riling up the kids

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

A Trip to the Genocide Memorial in Kigali, Rwanda

Last Wednesday, the group (Cathy and Teste and us 8 volunteers) headed to Kigali for the day. It was a 2 hour drive along a windy road that took us up and down many of Rwanda’s famous hills (Rwanda is often known the Land of a Thousand Hills...in fact the hotel in Hotel Rwanda is called the Hotel Mille Collines).  The main purpose of trip to the capital was to see the Genocide Memorial Museum.
The Genocide Memorial had a profound effect on the way we see Rwandans. The short summary of the genocide is that for years leading up to 1994, there had been tensions (originally spurred by the Belgians and French and later exacerbated by the Rwandan government and an extremist militia group) between the Hutus (85% of the population) and Tutsis (15%). In 1994, these tensions escalated to the point where the mandate was to rid the country of all Tutsi (approximately 1.2M people). Think about that for a second. Imagine if the Ontario gov’t had a mandate to eliminate 15% of the population. Basically, eliminate a large minority such as the Chinese or Indians. For several months in 1994, this was status quo in Rwanda. Tutsis were hunted and killed as were moderate Hutus that protected Tutsis. Families were divided, friends turned against one another and mob mentality ensued. UN General Romeo D’Allaire tried to get help from the UN to stop the massacres but his request was denied, likely due to Rwanda not being oil-rich, diamond-rich or a strategically situated country.
When the terror finally stopped, over 1 million people had died and scores more were savagely injured. The UN and other political powers realized the extent of the carnage that happened under their noses and shame-laden public apologies were put forth.
Fast forward to 2010. A mere 16 years later, the country has come to terms with it’s history and is making its way along the road of recovery to the road of prosperity. According to many, recently re-elected president Paul Kagame, has much to do with this as he’s rallied his people to create a safe country that doesn’t have the same levels of corruption that other African countries are notorious for. His popularity is well over 90% due to his policies and the effective implementation.
Ok..enough of the history lesson. How did seeing the Memorial change our views? One of the last exhibits was dedicated to the children of the genocide. There was a banner “I didn’t choose to be an orphan” that hit me hard. Orphanhood was painfully thrust upon so many children in 1994..and some of these children are the ones that we see on Saturday (the street kids) or they’re the young parents of some of kids who are now at our pre-school. These are children that were likely taught no real life skills and were now left to fend for themselves and their brothers and sisters. When we walk to school, we often pass those who are missing one or more limbs. It’s possible that many of these limbs were lost during the butchering of 1994.
Rwandans have every right to be jaded and mistrustful..but they’re not. They are happy, welcoming people that have been incredibly friendly. I love walking the 4 Km to school and exchanging waves, smiles and the “muaramuzse” (good morning) greeting with almost 50% of the adults and 100% of the children we pass. And they’re not patronizing me by being nice to my face and then bad-mouthing the muzungu (foreigner) once out of earshot.  It’s Rwandan custom to not say bad things about people they don’t know.  They’re genuinely happy to see foreigners in their country and love the novelty of our skin colour, clothes and language.
In an upcoming post, I’ll try to explain why I’ve become infatuated with this country, but it should be obvious that the warmth of the people top the list.

Fountain of Hope

Mass Graves at the Genocide Memorial







View of many of Rwanda's rolling hills