Touched by a Gorilla

Oct 3 2010 was a special day for a couple of reasons. First – it heralded our first wedding anniversary. We made it a year without killing each other – a promising sign. Second – it was the day we chose to go Gorilla trekking in the Virunga Mountains in Rwanda. We figured what better way to spend our anniversary than with a bunch of hairy apes. However, since friends and family weren’t able to make it to Rwanda, we decided we’d go see the Gorillas instead.

Our pick-up arrived at 5:45am and at 6am we were off to the main office to get registered and meet our guides. Our trek would be in the Virunga mountain range, where Dian Fossey conducted her research. (Her original study group – the Susa group – still resides in these mountains, but the trek to see them is the most gruelling, and we opted for a slightly easier trek). After about an hour of standing around watching the guides and other staff do the customary chatting/negotiating, we were separated into our different groups. The groups consist of a guide, a trekking ‘scout’ who goes ahead to see where the Gorillas are and report back, and about 8-9 trekkers per group.  I elected to get a porter for the princely sum of $10 USD – a nice 18 year old boy called Emmanuel who cheerfully accompanied us and insisted on even carrying the rain jacket I had, rather than let me wrap it around my waist. (The kid was later worth his weight in gold when he helped me negotiate a VERY challenging climb by literally airlifting me with his right hand as he cheerfully swung his machete with his left).

Our hike took us through some flat farmland and then on through some bamboo forest area. Our guide explained that the ‘man with the gun’ who accompanied us was not there to shoot the slowest trekker, rather as a security measure as the forest is also home to buffalo who can be aggressive buggers when the mood strikes them. The gun is to scare them off, as in these here parts, animal life is more sacred than human, and rightfully so.

We trekked along with me thinking what a lovely cake-walk this all was when we arrived at the stinging nettles. Then, we received word the gorillas were nearby and the path became extremely steep, and we all grabbed bushes and roots for leverage as we hauled ourselves up the slippery leaves underfoot, hoping we wouldn’t land face-first in a nettle bush. Gorilla watching is not effective when one’s eyes are swollen shut.

Then it happened. We heard a rustling in bushes about 10 feet away and saw a black mass in the trees. Just a few feet more to go when my feet started to slip and I did what I typically do when on a steep incline with no traction – I froze solid. This effective manoeuvre has also been tried with great success at Blue Mountain in Ontario. Someone handy notices you’re frozen and they come get you unstuck – in this case it was my friendly neighbourhood porter – Emmanuel. GOLD I tell ya.

Once at the site where the gorillas were, we saw 2 babies come tumbling down the hill just 4 feet away from us – absolutely unperturbed by their human visitors. In a tree beside me I saw yet another baby staring us squarely in the eye – trying to suss out the strangers. Then a sibling came along and smacked him on the head.

At this point, a smaller gorilla who was hiding in a bush by David’s leg, decided to cross the path we were standing on, and grabbed on to his leg for leverage as she passed by. We heard her coming and he stayed absolutely still as we weren’t sure what she would do. Seeing the little one grab on to his leg (gently and firmly, he said) and walk to the other side was absolutely magical.

Then I experienced what I’ll remember as an epic moment in my life. The lone Silverback in the group, a great big male of about 400lbs, emerged from the foliage. We were instructed to move out of his wave, which we did to the best of our abilities, given we were all standing on a steep incline surrounded by stinging nettles, mud and uneven footing. When he finally did emerge, he stood in all his glory, the sun shining down on him and he truly was magnificent. I had the privilege of being the closest to him in the group – a mere 4 feet from where he stood. Having never been this close to a gorilla before, I freaked out a tad, and turned my back to him and held on to David for dear life. I figure, if King Kong was going to punch me, he may as well do it in the back of my head so I wouldn’t see it coming. ‘Don’t worry’ said the guide’ It’s ok’ and sure enough, the big guy simply walked down the path we had come down, all 24 of his tribe following his lead. These creatures, with whom we share 97% of our DNA, are absolutely gentle and non-aggressive.

The next hour was spent following this gorilla family (to our relief he moved DOWN the mountain instead of UP it) -  during which the silverback made 2 more walks past our group within a mere 4-5 feet. The rule for humans is to stay 7 metres away from the Gorillas. Cleary, no one has explained these rules to the gorillas as some seemed to have no problems walking past us as though we were just another primate in the jungles they inhabit. Albeit an INFERIOR primate, as when you’re in the presence of a Gorilla, there is no doubt who’s in charge. 

The Rwanda board that oversees the Gorilla Trekking program is doing an absolutely fantastic job. The ‘habituated’ gorilla families (these are the groups that are allowed limited human exposure, so they can be a part of the trekking program) are kept a close eye on, and every member is known by name. They are monitored for health and there is a strong anti-poaching force in effect. Unlike some other countries, Rwanda is not overly susceptible to corruption, and the anti-poaching task force is extremely effective. The guides are friendly and knowledgeable and do a great job at communicating with the gorillas in ‘gorilla speak’ to ascertain safety and approachability. While the price is somewhat steep ($500 USD per permit/per person) – chances are the prices are only going to go up in future, as they seem to have over the past few years.  But it makes for one cool story to tell the grandkids.

Photos to come soon..we're at the Kigali airport right now waiting for our flight to Tanzania and the connection is pretty dismal.

- Dal