Back when we were in 'Nam

After five soothing days in Luang Prabang, Laos we flew to Hanoi to begin our tour of ‘Nam (yes…I love telling stories of back when I was in ‘Nam). We arrived in the evening and were picked up by two guys our hotel had sent for us. For the first 15 minutes of our ride, I was a little suspicious because they spoke virtually no english, didn’t really smile, drove fast...and there were TWO guys. Why would two guys be necessary for a hotel pickup of two people?? After a while though, my fatigue set in and I began to doze off. Dal quickly woke me, apparently stricken by the same suspicions and warned me NOT to fall asleep during this ride. (Sidebar : When travelling, I recommend a small dose of paranoia. 99.9% of the world are good, honest people willing to help, so too much distrust leads to unnecessary stress and missed opportunities. But too little caution and you leave yourself exposed to thieves, scam-artists, and filthy hotel bathrooms). We wound up reaching safely, and I was glad I stayed awake because it was our first experience of truly crazian (crazy-asian) driving at its finest.

We did a day tour of Hanoi which was pretty good. Our tour mates included: a precocious Argentinian named Ignacio (I had mixed feelings about him. I loved that his nickname was Nacho (Nachoooooooooooo !!) but despised him for guessing my age to be 46 years old), 2 elderly Vietnamese people that kept wandering off and an elderly Australian gentleman with a younger Singaporean wife who were fun. We visited Ho Chi Minh’s Palace grounds. For clarification : Ho Chi Minh was the leader of the Vietnamese independence movement and the leader of the Viet Cong and his palace grounds were in Hanoi which is in the North; Saigon (in the south) however has been renamed Ho Chi Minh City or HCMC). Uncle Ho, as he’s affectionately referred to, is still revered as a national hero and maintains almost god-like status by the communist government and many Vietnamese people. This is why I was a bit aghast when Dal asked our tour guide if he had had many mistresses.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

The older wandering Vietnamese couple, Nachooooooo and us

Later in the tour, we were taken to a 6-story building where we saw how a piece of pottery was created, shaped, coloured, polished and completed into a finished product..to be sold at your local dollar store. Actually..the prices were quite high compared to the Dollar Store, however these were genuinely handmade. One pet peeve of mine about city tours in Asia is that you’re inevitably taken to a place where you feel almost obligated to purchase something. We obligingly purchased 2 mugs – once shaped like a dog, and the other shaped like a mouse. Dal is planning several tea parties when we get back to show off her mouse mug.

Dal creating on a masterpiece

They listened to hip hop as they worked

$5 US ?? Do you know how much I could get this for at a Scarborough Dollar Store ?

We were then taken to another museum that used to be the University of Literature. To be honest I don’t remember much about it, but it was our first sighting of Confucius statues, which of course led to rounds of "Confucius says" jokes. Outside the museum, we encountered a slew of postcard and book vendors including the boy below. We wound up buying “A Thousand Splendid Suns” by Khaled Hosseini for $5 which is a brilliant yet disturbing novel set in Afghanistan.

Confucius says

I honestly can't remember the background..but I liked the photo..

Really sweet kid selling postcards and novels outside the museum.

We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the wonderful staff at the Hanoi Guesthouse. It was only $22 a night and came with breakfast (a big bowl of Pho or bread/jam). The room was fine (although it was on the 4^th floor and had no elevator) and laundry was reasonably priced and it was in a location close to the action. But what was truly phenomenal was the staff that went above the call of duty regularly when it came to coordinating trips, flights and ensuring our comfort. They always had a genuine large smile on their face and we’d strongly recommend this hotel to anyone visiting Hanoi. Hanoiguesthouse.com is their website.

In terms of food, the hotel recommended a restaurant down the street that served the best deep fried shrimp I’ve ever eaten. I was sooo tempted to try the deep fried crickets but decided against it as we were going on an overnight cruise to Halong Bay the next day and I didn’t want an upset stomach. We also went to another restaurant, Quan An Ngon, recommended #3 out of 225 on Trip Advisor which reminded me a little of the Movenpick chain in that there were several types of cuisines available. Ironically, this was also the only restaurant in Asia that didn’t have spring rolls...because they ran out of them…at 8pm ! How does that happen in Vietnam ??

Hanoi was actually one of our least favorite cities on our SE Asia trip. The main reason is that we thought it was a terrible walking city. Hanoi is a city with around 6 million people and 3 million motos and they’re everywhere. They’re parked all over the sidewalks, they’re weaving down the road at breakneck speed or they’re driving along the edge of the road in the wrong direction. Crossing the street is an experience that you almost have to psyche yourself up for. I harkened back to the days of playing computer Frogger as my inspiration.  Dal’s strategy was to hold my hand, close her eyes and hope for the best. Hanoi was also a stark contrast to the clear air and tranquil, leisurely atmosphere of Luang Prabang so the culture shock may have caught us off guard. Hanoi’s a place worth checking out, but we’re glad we only spent a couple of nights there.

Motos. They're EVERYwhere !!

- DP