Among the tourist attractions in Luang Prabang, Laos is the Elephant Mahout course – a 1-day or 2-day excursion where you get to ride elephants mahout style (i.e. on their shoulders, the way their trainers do), learn their commands and then take them down to the river for a group bathing event.
We arrived at the elephant camp and were duly outfitted with our ‘mahout gear’, a rather unflattering matching denim set of three-quarter length shorts and a shirt. ‘Better their clothes than mine’ was my thought process and I ignored the hideousness of my outfit and resolved to have a good time.
The day started with an hour long ride on the elephants in the traditional elephant harness. This was likely to get us used to the size of the animals and used to the way in which they walk. After the ride, we sat down to a simple lunch and a nap, which was occasionally disturbed by the camp cat who insisted on chewing on our clothing while we slept. After swatting it away about 10 times it finally took the hint and fell asleep on a nearby pillow.
After lunch came the moment to ride the elephants bare-back as it were. The ellies were lined up and we were encouraged on clamber off the platform and sit on their necks/shoulders and basically hold on for dear life. Except there was nothing to hold on to. My first few moments on the elephant were terrifying. Though the elephant herself was a lovely, gentle, obliging creature, I was concerned that I might lose my balance and then have to deal with a rather far drop to the ground. My assigned mahout sat behind me (in the seat normally reserved for tourists) and assured me it would be alright. About 30 mins into the walk he asked if I was doing ok. ‘How nice of him’ I thought, and replied affirmative. At which point he promptly took a nap and left me and the elephant to our own devices. Thanks fully my old girl was a peach, unlike Dave’s elephant who had a phobia of elephant dung and would veer off the trail and plough into the forest to avoid having to step over the dung of the elephants before here. As a result, Dave and his mahout were scratched and bloody after their walk, having ploughed through so many thorny trees.
Riding an elephant is a strange experience. It takes a bit of balance to sit comfortable on their shoulders as they walk, and as you lean on their heads for support, you realize how incredibly wiry the little hairs on their heads are. Sometimes, they flap their ears, which provides a lovely breeze as your legs are neatly tucked behind their massive ears as they walk.
The highlight of the day was taking the elephants down to the river to bathe. Mine elephant obligingly sat down and raise one knee, allowing me to clamber up her knee and onto her back (it’s not as graceful as it sounds – the mahout did a fair bit of pulling and shoving to get me up there as well). Dave’s elephant refused to sit down, but did put up her knee. She then proceeded to walk away while he was still climbing up her, leaving him dangling off a moving elephant until the mahouts managed to shove/hoist him up. Fun for all, especially the elephant. Here's a clip of it : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ6hNw5OdPc
The elephants love the water and once they’re in, they proceed to get playful. In my case this meant showering me with cold river water from her trunk. In Dave’s case, it meant dunking under the water entirely, leaving Dave to wonder when he might fall off his crazy elephant and how he would get back up.
At the end of it all, we’d had a fantastic day. We politely ignored the fact that NO safety briefing had been included in the tour. So we devised our own safety measures which included hanging off the elephants ears and bellowing for help should something unexpected happen. One thing we did notice was that none of the elephants were prodded with elephant hooks. Instead, the mahouts used loud voices and small branches broken from trees to coax them forward. It was nice to see the animals are treated with kindness and gentleness and made the experience a positive one all around.
- Dal
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